Now living in Adelaide, since 2013, i have become an Aussie! Born in the U.S. i decided that life elsewhere, specifically Australia had more to offer. My surfing days are pretty much behind me, but when im in Sydney i always take my board down to Bondi for a surf – even at 56 years old i can still ride a wave pretty well!
History – Pre 2012:
So I have lived in Santa Cruz for quite a long time, family was born and raised here, however lived with my mom up north when my mom and dad divorced. I always visited my dad who surfs throughout the county often but temporarily retired due to several bad injuries. When I lived up north, visiting my dad in Santa Cruz and getting to go surfing at Cowell’s was always the thing I looked forward to all year long!
Well about 2 years ago moved in with my dad down here for many reasons and started taking surfing seriously about a year ago. He gave me an old Surftech Softop, got me a wetsuite and booties and I have been making it out 1-3 times a week since. Its amazing. There is just so much about it, and the ocean, when I am there I want to stay there. Since I live in Davenport, Cowell’s is the most convenient spot to surf for my level. However I am just fed up with the spot. I am tired of it being INSANELY crowded, even at 6:30am! I am tired of idiots who don’t know what their doing knocking people over, not having control of their boards, and hurting others. But most importantly I am tired of all of the big hot shots surfing cowell’s when they should be up at the lane, or else where. Its ridiculous. Its not JUST that they are so good at this beginning spot. Its that they hog the waves also. My friends tell me I just need to paddle up there and get some of the good waves they are always getting. But they either get mad at me, or their paddle is stronger so of course they get going first. and what happens to me…I end up just sitting on my board for hours watching an awesome set go by…and these guys seriously paddle back to their spot as fast as they can after getting off a wave. Its like, what are the rest of us who are wanting to advance supposed to do? Why cant the intermediate and advanced surfers be at the intermediate and advanced spots